July

We’re truly into summer now. Spare the odd sausage on the ‘Barbie’, I seem to be eating no meat at all, it’s amazing how the season’s can affect our eating patterns. In the winter you take for granted the comfort that you can eat all things at anytime. Food flies from a different hemisphere to arrive on our plate. Yet despite all things being readily abundant at this time of year, fish is top of my meat to eat list! Maybe it’s the freshness of fish that’s so welcome in warmer months…whatever! get stuck in…

“Whoa there!” that was careless of me; you can’t just pillage the sea for any old fish you fancy. There are serious problems in the way we source fish: fish farms, long line fishing, depleted tuna stocks, by-catch, the list of environmentally destructive practices goes on and on. Here’s a quick step by step guide to ethical and sustainable fish sourcing. 1). Catch your own, its cheap and easy(ish). Last year I bought a beach-caster and tackle (£20) and with some sagely advice from like minded fisherman on the beach I was able to catch my own mackerel and sea bass, which I cooked there and then on the beach. 2). I know catching your own seems daunting and the recipe for many a disappointed trip, so if it really isn’t for you then buy from somewhere where the fish is local and fresh. Just past the King Alfred centre on the way down to the lagoon, there’s a guy called Russ who’s the best. 3). Don’t follow the herd, sea bass and cod have been over fished due to their current trendy status, nearly all salmon and trout is farmed, buy something interesting: Bream; Pollack; Dabs; Lemon Sole, Gurnard, Pilchards and the super abundant Mackerel.

Mackerel is fish of the month for July, it’s so versatile: barbequed, escabeche-d, ceviche-d, smoked, gravad max-ed! My favourite one yet is simply pan fried fillets of mackerel with slivers of garlic, and a handful of bay leaves. Warm the pan with olive oil then throw in the three ingredients, turning gently till the skin of the fillets have crisped. The colours in the pan are brilliant: the dark green of the bay and the dappled blues and silvers of the skin are very vivid. Season very generously with good rock salt and fresh black pepper and serve with fried new potatoes, tomato salad and a good wedge of lemon.

A summery, fruity white would be the perfect match for this dish, a rosé would also be good. Either should be served well chilled. My choice for is for a Bianco by Bolognese producers ‘Corte d’Aibo’. This white is a blend of Pignoletto, Sauvignon and Chardonnay, as you can imagine it is floral and fruity, with a crisp freshness that suit the strong flavours of the dish. Dive in!